Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Hurricanes, Seawater and Cars - a bad combination




If you’ve been watching the news these past few days you’ve probably seen plenty of images of waterlogged cars.  New York City alone has thousands of flooded vehicles.  Some were immersed to the tops of the tires, while others were totally underwater.  What will happen to them?  All are junk; useful for scrap metal and body panels only.  But that’s not where many will end up . . .

Most of the cars will be covered by insurance, and they will be written off and sold as salvage.  For months to come, salvage auctions all over the East Coast will be processing these cars.  Some will look perfect, but they aren’t.  There’s a reason they were declared scrap.  If only they ended up that way.  The fact that they don’t is one of the dirty little secrets of the insurance business.

When an insurance company declares a vehicle a total loss, they are in essence buying the car from the owner at its pre-loss value.  But insurance companies are not in the business of fixing cars; they are in the business of money.  Therefore their goal is to turn that piece of totaled iron into cash in the most efficient way possible.

That’s where salvage auctions come in. Insurance companies hire these auctions to gather the wrecked, burnt, and flooded cars from individuals wherever they may be.  They then clean them up – if such a thing is possible – and auction them to the highest bidder.

Bidders at these salvage sales are supposed to be recyclers – junkyards, to use the more traditional term.  However, many buyers of flood cars are shady used car operations.  These people don’t buy the salvage for parts. They buy them to fix it up and sell – often to some unsuspecting used car buyer.

Insurance companies could stop this practice in a moment, if they wanted.  They could require flood cars to be cut up for scrap, and they could ban sales to so-called “rebuilders.”  Why don’t they do that?  Money.  A buyer of scrap might pay $10,000 for a flooded Porsche, because that’s the value of the salable parts.  But another bidder might pay $15,000 knowing he can sell the car to some unsuspecting motorist while it still drives.

From my perspective, it looks like that want the top bid – which probably comes from a “rebuilder” – more than they want these ruined cars off the road.

Why are they ruined, you ask?  How can a car be ruined while it still looks brand new, especially if it drives like new, too?  Here’s how it happens . . .

The first thing to fail is the electrical system. Most modern cars have wire harnesses running under the carpet – on the floor – and many have control modules down there too.  If seawater rises above the door sills these areas will be submerged.  When that happens, salt water invades the wiring, control units and electrical connectors and begins the invisible process of corrosion that ends up like the rusty junk you see, washed up on beaches.

Once it starts, there’s no turning back this process.  The only cure would be to strip out all the wiring and controllers and install new parts – a task that might cost $10,000 on an ordinary Toyota or Chevrolet, and that’s just the beginning . . .

When seats and upholstery are submerged their cushions and innards become waterlogged.  They can’t dry because the water is sealed inside by impermeable vinyl and leather coverings.  So the water stays in their, growing mold and rotting the interior from within.  It’s not a very pretty picture, when you cut it apart six months later.  Once again, it could be fixed, but the cost to take apart every bit of interior and wring it dry would be prohibitive and destructive, because most of thise pieces were never meant to be disassembled.

Then we come to the running gear.  Modern cars were not designed to operate in water.  Seals and gaskets keep oil and grease from escaping outward often can’t prevent seawater from making its way inward.  When salt water gets inside it ruins the oil, and begins the familiar process of corrosion whenever it comes in contact with bare steel. 

Seawater damage to wheel bearings and axles may be insidious – the bearings may fail one by one, over a period of years.  But fail they will.  The ocean will always win.  The Army learned this when they started driving truck up beaches – today, they strip and overhaul any axle assembly that’s been in salt water for this very reason.  You can do that in an ordinary car, too, but the cost will be high and it’s one more reason cars get scrapped.

The same thing happens in a engine.  If the engine is running when submerged it usually dies a violent death as incompressible water is sucked into the cylinders, shattering or bending the pistons and rods.  If the engine is off, the damage may not be as apparent, but the corrosion will begin inside, and the engine will fail long before its time.  This will happen even if the oil is changed.

Insurance companies know these things.  That’s why they declare flood cars to be total losses.  But to some dealers, they look too good to scrap, and there’s money to be made. 

These people will buy flood cars, change fluids, change failed control units, and get the vehicles running as best they can.  Then they offer them for sale, usually far below book value.  The cars often have salvage titles, which tell buyers the cars are reconstructed, but buyers look at the cars and tell themselves all is well, because they look so good.  Wrong!  A saltwater flood car will never stop presenting problems; it was written off originally for a very good reason.

A true repair of a saltwater flood car would consist of new wiring and control units, dried out or new upholstery, and completely overhauled or new drivetrain and running gear.   The cost of that work will far exceed the value of any ordinary car.

The take-away from all this:  Be very careful if you’re in the market for a used car in the next six months.  Steer clear of anything with a salvage title, no matter how god it looks.  If a car has a clear title, look at where it’s from. If it lived in an area impacted by Sandy – be very careful. 

Thursday, October 4, 2012

Storing newer collector cars for winter




If you live in snow country you know convertible and sports car season is coming to an end.  Soon it will be time to put our pets away till next year.  In this article I’d like to offer some pointers for storing late model collector cars.

Start by filling your car with fuel and pouring in the correct amount of fuel stabilizer.  I suggest Sta-Bil brand but alternatives are available.  A full gas tank minimizes the chance of condensation which happens when water vapor from the air condenses on the inside of the gas tank as temps drop in the evening.  If this happens every day in a car that’s in storage you can accumulate a great deal of water in the fuel.  Filling the tank to the top will prevent it.

I also suggest pouring in a bottle of octane booster as the fuel will lose octane rating the longer it is stored.

Note:  cars built after the 1990s have sealed fuel tanks which should not allow free circulation of vapors.  For these cars filling the tank is less important and indeed you may want to keep their fuel level low so you can fill with fresh gas in the spring.

Run the car at least 30 minutes to get it thoroughly warmed up; an hour’s hard run is better.   You want to make sure you have boiled any stray moisture out of the engine and exhaust system before shutting the car off for the season.

You want to store the car with reasonably clean oil; some suggest changing oil right before winter storage while others argue for changing the oil first thing in the spring.  In my opinion, the oil in your collector car should always be fairly clean so that no special attention is required for storage.  As a practical matter, I can say with confidence that cars often go into the shop to be "checked over for spring" where shop visits to "prep for winter" are fairly uncommon.

If you don't know the age of your coolant I suggest you either change it (most cars should get fresh coolant at 2-5 years intervals) or at least tests its ph to make sure it has not become corrosive.

The next step is washing your car, and vacuuming and cleaning the interior and trunk.  Spots that wash off easily now may not be so removable if left till next spring!  If your car is going to be stored in an area where mice may invade I suggest putting mothballs or some other repellant in the car to improve the chances that they won’t move in.

Check all your fluids and top them off right to the full lines before parking the car.  Make sure the antifreeze protection is good and the windshield washer system has solvent, not water, so that it does not freeze.

Spray all the door seals and the trunk seal with silicone spray before putting the car away.  Oil the hood, door, and trunk hinges, too.  If there are throttle linkage pieces on the engine I’d hit them with oil, and I’d also oil any moving pivots (like the parking brake linkage) under the car.

Before parking your car I suggest inflating your tires to the maximum pressures as shown on the tire sidewall.  This will minimize the tendency of your tires to develop flat spots as they sit.

Switch off the radio, heat, air conditioner and all other accessories before you shut the car off.  The will minimize the electrical load and transients when you reconnect power next spring.  It’s your best way to prevent electrical failures.

Drive your car into the spot where it will be stored.  Close the windows, and shut off the engine and remove the key.  If your car was made before the airbag and electronic engine management era you can go ahead and disconnect the battery.  If you have a newer car – wait a minute!   Newer cars often need as much as twenty minutes for their computers to store data and shift to low power mode.  If you disconnect the battery before that process is complete you can set fault codes that will require a trip to the shop to correct next year.

In the worst case, disconnecting the battery can even cause major electronic systems to fail.  Land Rover – for example – has a problem with this on their 2000-2005 Range Rovers.  Disconnecting the battery too quickly can send the navigation computer to never-never land where the only cure is a new $1,000+ unit.  Be patient and avoid problems.

If you are disconnecting the battery I certainly suggest you take the keys out of the vehicle.  The reason – when you connect the battery in the spring there is always a chance the central locking system will power up and lock the vehicle.  If that happens and the keys are inside, you’re stuck!

Modern batteries lose about 10% of their charge every month while sitting.  If you park the car at the beginning of November a good battery will still have enough juice to start the car in March.  Connecting a trickle charger will keep it at 100% buy you’ll need access to an electrical outlet.

The best way to protect your tires is to put wood blocks under the suspension at all four corners, lifting the car’s wheels slightly off the ground.  That will ensure the tires are round next season.

Do not set the parking brake.  Leaving the parking brake under tension all winter may well result in a brake that won’t release next spring. 

If you have a convertible you should usually store the car with the top up to prevent shrinkage.  Once it's closed don't open it until you have a warm day to heat the canvas unless you are in a heated space in which case that does not matter.  Every year we see plastic rear windows that split when opened on a cold day.

Some people prefer car covers; others leave their pets uncovered.  There’s one school of thought that says pulling the cover off and on will scratch the car and another that says the protection is invaluable.  If you want to get a cover and the car is indoors I recommend the heavy flannel.  If it’s outdoors Technalon is the ticket.

These tips will maximize your chances of an uneventful winter of storage.  I wish you the best of luck with executing the plan.  And remember to keep your insurance in force.  If there’s a water leak in the garage, or mice eat holes in the seats . . . those things are covered by comprehensive insurance in most states.  The times you are not driving the car may well be the times you need insurance most.



John E Robison
J E Robison Service
Springfield, MA, USA

Monday, October 1, 2012

When speakers stop speaking


Is the radio in your vintage car sounding tinny, scratchy, or generally awful?  If the vehicle is all original, and it’s more than 10 years old, there’s a good chance your speakers are shot.

Even if the car is hardly driven at all speaker cones are prone to dry out and fail.  The part that fails is generally the surround, which is the bit that connects the main body of the cone to the frame.




Take a look at these two photos and see the difference – one shows a good surround, while the other shows a surround that has fallen to pieces.  In this speaker the surround was made of foam, and the foam turned to dust and vanished.  When the speaker is played it will sound terribly scratchy because the voice coil (hidden under the cone) is scraping the frame.  If left unrepaired the coil may short out, and damage the radio electronics.

Interestingly, the speakers most prone to failure are those made with foam surrounds in the 1980s and 1990s.  Older speakers had rubberized cardboard surrounds, or simple paper, and they fare batter with time. 

And time isn’t the only thing that kills speakers – volume will do them in, too.  When you play the radio loud the speaker cones are pushed in and out greater distances, which stresses the cones and surrounds and will eventually lead to failure.

Speaker technology has improved quite a bit in the past decade, which means the speakers you can buy today are far better than what was in the older cars.  For that reason we tend to turn to suppliers like Crutchfield rather than buy oem from the carmaker.

If you are changing speakers in a 1970s car (or something older) you may find there’s only one wire to the speaker.  In those installations the other terminal on the speaker is connected to ground.  When wiring the speakers you’ll see the terminals marked in red, or with a + sign.  Ground the black or – terminal.

The polarity of speakers is important whenever there is more than one installed in a system.  When they are the same, they are said to be in phase, and they reinforce each other   When they are backwards they tend to cancel each other out.  Out of phase systems tend to sound tinny and faint.

Look at the speakers you are replacing and make sure the polarity is the same when you connect the wires to the new ones.

Saturday, September 15, 2012

The British Invasion car show, 2012

Thanks to Mike Gaetano and all the volunteers for another successful show.   614 cars and counting . . .













Thursday, September 6, 2012

Inspecting Rolls-Royce and Bentley hydraulic systems





One of the more unique features of 1965-1998 Rolls-Royce motorcars is the hydraulic system.  The hydraulic system powers the brakes and the rear suspension’s height control.  These systems are legendary for their complexity and potential for bank-breaking repair costs.  In this essay I'll show you how to check yours out so you can get a sense of what's happening before disaster strikes.

The early version of this system (1965-80) is filled with a derivative of conventional brake fluid (RR363).  Newer cars (until the advent of the Silver Seraph series) used Castrol hydraulic system mineral oil, or HSMO.  The two fluids are not compatible.  Use of the wrong fluid in a car will cause severe system damage.  All reservoirs are clearly labeled RR363 or HSMO.

The fluid in these systems should be changed annually.  Some owners question the need for this, when their cars are rarely driven.  Here's why it needs to be done:  The hydraulic pumps store fluid in accumulators where they compress nitrogen gas under very high pressure.  The fluid is separated from the nitrogen by a rubber barrier, but it is inevitable that some nitrogen will make its way into the fluid.  This forms bubbles, and bubbles in the fluid cause the brakes to pull and act erratically.

Any car that has been sitting a long time is sure to have "funny feeling" brakes for this reason  The cure:  Change the fluid annually.

The system contains two hydraulic circuits that operate in parallel for the brakes.  One of the systems also powers the rear height control.   Hydraulic fluid is stored in reservoirs on the left fender well.  Lines carry the fluid to the hydraulic pumps, which are located in the center top of the engine; under the carburetors or the fuel injection.  High-pressure pipes carry the hydraulic fluid to the accumulators under the motor.  From there excess fluid is returned to the reservoirs.  Braided lines carry the high-pressure fluid to the distribution valve assembly located under the driver seat. 

A network of steel pipes carries hydraulic fluid to the calipers at each wheel and to the rear suspension and height control.   The rear suspension contains height control valves, shocks, and gas springs that sit above the shocks in the trunk area.

All the pumps, valves, and moving parts are subject to failure.  Calipers rust or leak.  Gas springs and accumulators lose their gas charge.  Metal lines rust and rubber hoses deteriorate invisibly.   A system this complex can only be fully tested by trained people using special tools in a workshop.  However, it’s possible to do a pretty good “quick check” without tools, using the following procedure:

Begin with the vehicle sitting, engine cold.  Get in the car and pump the brake pedal 10-15 times.  Open the hood and check the level in the hydraulic reservoirs.  If the level is low, look for leaks (as evidenced wet spots) Turn the key on but do not start the engine yet.  You should see two lights, Brake 1 and Brake 2.  Depending on the year of the car these may be in an electronic unit, in a group of lamps, or by themselves in the middle of the dash.

If you do not see the lamps, or if only one is lit, give the brakes 10-20 more pumps.  If the light does not come on you can assume that warning circuit is broken.  Start the car.  Watch how long it takes for the lights to go out.  If it takes more than 20 seconds the hydraulic pumps are probably weak.

Run the car 2 more minutes, shut it off, and turn the key back on.  Begin pumping the brake and note how many pumps before the Brake 1 and 2 lamps illuminate.  Less than 20 pumps indicates the car has weak accumulators.

Start the car again and wait for the lights to go out.  Go to the back of the vehicle and bounce each corner.  If the car is soft and pushes down a few inches with your weight that’s normal.  If it’s rock-hard that is a sign of failed gas springs in the rear suspension.

Sit down on the rear bumper (even better, have two people sit on the bumper) and wait 30 seconds. You should feel the car lift to the original (and visibly correct) ride height.  If it does not lift that’s a sign of problems in the height control.

Take the car onto the road.  Try braking slowly and quickly.  Pay attention to any pulling or diving that may indicate caliper problems or air in the lines.  Look for any pulsation or shudder that may indicate warped or damaged rotors.  Let the car come to a stop on a gentle slope and release the brake.  Make sure the vehicle begins rolling smoothly and the brakes do not drag.

Shut the car off and put it in neutral.  Press and release the brakes a few times.

Finally, put the vehicle on a lift and make sure all four wheels spin freely.  If any wheels drag that may be a sign of caliper trouble.  Next check all the components for leakage.  Look at the reservoirs (top left fender well), the pumps (top of the engine), the main valves and accumulators (under side of the engine), the distribution valves (under driver seat), the brake lines and calipers, and the rear suspension components.
   
Look at the fluid and make sure it looks smooth and uncontaminated.  RR363 (used 1965-1980) should be almost clear; HSMO (used 1980-1998) is dark green.  There should not be any foam, sediment, or sludge visible.  Color should be consistent. 

Look at the rubber hoses to see if they are original.  If your car is more than 10-15 years old I suggest you replace all rubber hoses as they can swell inside, creating invisible failures.  A swollen hose may cause brakes to drag and overheat.  Old hoses are also prone to bursting.

If your car passes all these tests you can give yourself and the vehicle a pat on the back.  If you see potential failures, I suggest you find a specialist and get a more thorough evaluation.

John E Robison
JE Robison Service
RROC Tech Consultant

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Flanged or Top Hat Liners in Land Rover Engines

The more I see of the 2003-4 Land Rover Discoveries, the more it seems their engines were fatally flawed.  Ten years ago, 90% of the engine problems from overheating were due to heads warping or head gaskets failing.  10% were due to what people called "slipped liners."

The same was true for noise complaints.  When someone came in with a rap or tick issue the problem was almost always a noisy catalyst or worn rocker shafts - comparatively simple fixes.  Only a tiny fraction of noises were from internal motor problems.

Today, with the late Disco motors, those odds have flipped.  When a 2003-4 Rover comes in with overheating trouble, the most likely cause is liner or block failure.  A noise complaint is more likely to be from excess clearance in the piston-liners (in other words, prematurely worn out.)   I've written several essays about how this happens so I won't repeat all that here.  The question is . . . what do we do about it?

The solution that has emerged - both here at Robison Service and in the UK - is to rebuild the blocks using flanged liners so the cylinder head seals against the liner, not the block.  Then we fit new pistons with proper clearances.



The photo above shows a typical failure.  The block cracks at the base of a head bolt bore, between the back of the liner and the water jacket.  With the stock liners there is no barrier to prevent combustion gases going round the liner and into the coolant.

The fitment of flanged liners solves that problem by making the liner top the sealing surface.  There is no high pressure gas behind the liner, and the cracks are rendered irrelevant.



The photo above shows a flanged liner and a new piston.  The o-ring seals the bottom of the liner to prevent coolant dripping into the oil sump in the event of a crack.



This is what a flanged liner looks like installed.  As you can see the wide flange covers the entire sealing area of the head gasket.

We can do flanged liners in 4.0, 4.6, and overbore configurations.  At this moment (Sept 2012), costs to do a block with flanged liners, new pistons, and all basic machine work in in the $4800 price range.  Our American costs are similar to costs from RPI or Turner over in the UK.

We believe this is the only long-term solution to the problems in these late motors, and it provides a substantial upgrade for any older Land Rover V8.  However, the liner repair is just the beginning when it comes to engine overhaul . . .

What else do we do when building a motor?

I recommend balancing any engine.  Motors like these rely on sophisticated engine electronics to achieve smoothness.  That will be considerably improved if the engine is mechanically balanced before assembly.

Front covers and oil pumps have been problematic on these trucks.  The pump gears fracture, and eventually the oil pump fails.  The result - engine failure from oil starvation.  I recommend fitting a new front cover as long as these parts remain available.

Heads are another problem area.  We recommend rebuilding the heads.  This involved walnut shell blasting to get everything spotless, followed by crack test and a check for warping.  Then we fit new guides, redo valves and seats and cut the sealing surfaces perfectly flat.  If you're a perfectionist we can also cc the combustion chambers to ensure each cylinder is exactly equal.


This is a rebuilt head.  As you can see the sealing surface is cut to a mirror finish.  We true these heads to half a thousandth of an inch to minimize the change of gasket failure.

We also rebuild rocker shafts, and swap cams and lifters.  Needles to say, every other part is cleaned and inspected before being overhauled, repaired, or replaced.   That thinking should also extend to the external accessories like the water pump, injectors, and alternator.


We believe the engines we are building now are substantially smoother and better than what land Rover delivered new.

Till next time
John Robison
J E Robison Service
Springfield, MA USA

(413) 785-1665